This is especially true if you're a lover of dark, leafy greens. Local varieties are at their best right now. Spinach, unavailable or inferior since the spring, is once again in its prime. Swiss chard is abundant, and the intensity of color in the stem of the rainbow chards is remarkable. The various kales get sweeter with the cold nights, and Brussels sprouts are always best after the first frost.
Kale seems to have been somewhat forgotten in recent years. Last week at the farmers' market, I saw piles of it in a small stall run by a lovely older woman who had the best smile and the most remarkable way with her customers. She was a real sweetheart.
When raw, kale has a tough, leathery feel, with coarse stems running through the leaves. It doesn't jump out at you the way colorful chards and bright green spinach do. But when it is cooked slowly as a component in a recipe, it is delicious and adds great texture.
Also, it is quail season and a neighbor was kind enough to give me six ‘brace’ of quail (usually 2 birds per brace) ~ all were plumb and dressed. Quail is a fantastic bird, with darker meat and very easy to cook. Here is a recipe that I have been making or variations of it for some time. It is loosely adapted from a recipe in the excellent cookbook, A Taste of France, except they were use squab. Kale, Bacon and Grilled Quail with red-wine-braised lentils
Ingredients4 large, fresh, whole quail
1 small carrot, peeled and diced
½ a medium-sized onion, peeled and diced
2 ounces double-smoked bacon, diced small
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and left whole
Pinch of salt
1 heaping cup small French lentils or black Beluga lentils
½ a bay leaf
Sprig of fresh thyme
1 cup robust, dry red wine
1 bunch of kale, washed, stems & tough leaf ribs removed
~ torn into random-sized pieces
Salt and pepper
Olive oil for brushing
2 tablespoons sweet butter
Split the quails down the back and remove as much of the bone as you wish.
Place bones in a small saucepan along with any suitable trimmings from the carrot, onion and bacon. Barely cover with water, and make a simple stock by simmering gently for an hour or so to produce about 2 cups of liquid. If you prefer to cook the quail whole, and therefore have no bones, use homemade chicken stock or broth.
In a small, high-sided pan, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, add the diced vegetables and bacon, the garlic and a pinch of salt, and cook over medium heat for a few moments until fragrant.
Add the lentils, bay leaf and thyme, stir to coat with the oil, add the wine and about half the stock, bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for about 10 minutes. Stir in the kale. Return to a simmer, adding more stock if it looks a little dry. Continue cooking and adding stock as required until the lentils are tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Turn off the heat ~ remove the garlic, thyme and bay leaf.
Heat a grilling pan, season the quail with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and lightly oil with olive oil. Grill quickly over high heat, keeping the meat pink and moist.
Reheat the lentils using a little more liquid to achieve a risotto-like consistency, stir in 2 tablespoons of sweet butter and serve with the quail.
Serves 4
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George’s notes:
- Quail is a small game bird that cooks quickly and tastes excellent; especial when they are seasoned with just salt & pepper, allowing the true flavor to come through.
- Preparing quail is easy, too. Position the bird breast side up on a cutting board, insert a butcher knife or cooking shears and cut along one side of the backbone. Place the blade on the other side of the backbone and cut again, removing the backbone completely from the carcass. Press down on the bird to flatten it, then turn it over and trim away the rib bones.
