Most of us think of chowders as heavy fare, suitable for hunkering down ~ while a winter storm rages outside. In fact, that is exactly how American chowder started in the fishing camps of New England.
But there is no real reason chowders should be limited to a particular season. The word, actually, can be applied to any thick, rich soup containing large pieces of substance. ~ I also think, despite the claims of some who prefer Manhattan Chowder, that chowder is typified by the inclusion of milk or cream, which automatically provides richness.
Given such a simple definition, chowders can take advantage of whatever ingredients you have on hand. Potatoes and cheese are good choices in the winter. Hard squashes like acorn and butternut make delightful fall chowders. A couple of years ago, I had an incredible tomato chowder in August, and fresh corn chowder is hard to beat. And given the season's notorious unpredictability, heartier chowders that warm your bones still may find a welcome place at the table on days when a cold snap catches you by surprise — as it did in some parts of the country last week.
The origin of the word "chowder" is somewhat ambiguous. Most authorities, including the Oxford English Dictionary, assert it originates from the French term faire la chaudiere, which literally means "make something in a cauldron." Others claim the word is from the Old English word jowter, which refers to a fish peddler.
The first chowders were based on seafood: miscellaneous fish, cod, oysters, shrimp, crab, clam and even lobster, which was once known as a poor-man's food. Until the 20th century, seafood of all sorts was cheap and plentiful in New England, and chowders were made of whatever was in the day's catch or could be collected on the shores.
Because of the abundance of clams — and their ready accessibility to anyone, fisherman or not — New England clam chowder became the ideal example for chowders. It is a lusciously thick, creamy broth with chunks of clam, potato and onion.
From its beginnings in New England, chowder spread westward across the continent, and was modified and adapted along the way. Potato chowder, corn chowder and potato-corn chowder are the most common variants, but chowders made of mixed vegetables, kale and spinach have also popped up.
Chicken chowder, usually mixed with corn, potatoes or both, also is common. And when chowder reached the West Coast, salmon chowders became popular. One of my favorite chowder variations is cheddar chowder, which is made by cooking bacon, browning onions in the bacon fat with some flour, then heating cream and milk, and melting sharp cheddar into the mix.
Most of the New England clam chowders I've eaten have been either too thin or thickened with a roux, which can give chowder a gravy-like character. I prefer a soup with the consistency of half and half.
An old chowder-head taught me to put oyster crackers in a plastic bag, pound them into fine crumbs with a beer bottle, and use them to thicken the chowder. This works beautifully with clam chowder. Unlike many soups, chowders have few ingredients, so there is no place for subtlety. Chowder should step up to you and look you squarely in the eye with no hesitancy or hidden agenda. And because there are so few components, they should be the best and freshest you can find. You can't hide poor ingredients in these simple bowls of honest fare.
This is an old favorite of mine with a history nearly as long as that of chowder itself. It makes a hearty winter dish, by highlighting the deep, earthy flavors of new potatoes. However hard you scrub the potatoes, you'll still taste the earth they were born in, and that's the way a potato should taste. There's a reason the French call them pommes de terre, or apples of the earth.

New Potato Chowder
Ingredients:
6 strips bacon
1 medium onion, coarsely diced
3 cups chicken broth
1 pound mixed baby potatoes, cut into ½ -inch dice
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon ground mustard
Additional salt and pepper to taste
In a large soup pot, cook bacon over medium-low heat until semi-crisp. Drain bacon, chop coarsely and reserve for garnish. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of grease.
Add diced onion and cook until it begins to brown. Increase heat to high, add a bit of chicken broth and deglaze the pot. Add remaining chicken broth and bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, add potatoes and salt, and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes.
Remove 1 cup of potatoes and mash thoroughly with a bit of the stock to loosen them up, then stir back in along with the heavy cream and mustard, and return to a simmer.
Adjust seasonings and serve, garnished with chopped bacon.
Serves 6
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George’s notes:- When most of us think of chowder, New England-style fish or clam chowder is what comes to mind, but they are only two of the dozens of home-style chowders you can make from this book. Once you discover the diversity of ingredients you can cook into a chowder and see the scope of styles and colors open to you, you will wonder how we ever came to think there were only one or two chowders in the world.
- Authentic chowder is characterized by generous chunks of local seasonal ingredients served in a moderate amount of broth. Another basic characteristic of chowder is its ease of preparation—even chowders that take more than an hour to make don't require anything more than keeping an eye on the pot. A big pot of chowder is perfect for a large gathering of family and friends, and because chowder truly is best when made ahead, you'll have plenty of time to enjoy your company.