One of my favorite cookbooks is written by southern food guru and writer, John T. Edge, who has capture many of her classic recipes for future generations to savor in “Mrs. Wilkes’ Boardinghouse Cookbook”. This book combines recipes and memories of the 95 year-old matriarch of a true Southern culinary landmark.
Visitors to Mrs. Wilkes’ Boarding House are seated family-style at oversized oak tables covered with an array of country cooking - soft whorls of mashed sweet potatoes, black-eyed peas swimming in potlikker, creamed Irish potatoes spiked with mustard, collard greens, squash casserole, creamed corn, stewed okra; and platter after platter of crusty fried chicken, chicken and dumplings, and rosy, country-cured ham. And Mrs. Wilkes would give grace before anyone touched the first bite. After all, she would say, “your belly is about to have a religious experience!” The fried chicken is especially heavenly. “If the Colonel made it so good” joked Mrs. Wilkes, “he would have been made a general.”
If you wish to enjoy a mid-day meal at Mrs. Wilkes’ Boardinghouse, I suggest you get there early. Reservations are not accepted and the lines at noon can sometimes extend a block or so down the street. Although they do virtually no advertising and there is no visible signage out front, this place is not exactly a big secret any more. But believe me, it is well worth the journey to and a brief 15-30 minute wait under the shady live oaks that line the sidewalk. The restaurant, located in Savannah’s historic district, is open Monday - Friday for breakfast and lunch. Call them at 912 232-5997 or visit Mrs. Wilkes online at www.mrswilkes.com ~ dress is casual.Yesterday, I prepared two of my favorite dishes from this renown Southern culinary restaurant and here there are...
Mrs. Wilkes’ Fried Chickenfrom Mrs. Wilkes' Boardinghouse Cookbook
Ingredients:
1 (2½ -pound) fryer, cut up
Salt and pepper
2 tablespoons evaporated milk
2 tablespoons water
All-purpose flour
Vegetable oil
Sprinkle the fryer with salt and pepper. Pour the milk and water over the fryer and marinate for about 10 minutes. Dip in a bowl of all-purpose flour. Shake off the excess flour. Heat oil to 300 degree F and deep-fry or heat oil to medium and panfry the chicken. Make sure the chicken is covered with oil at all times. Fry until golden brown.
Serves 4 to 6
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Mrs. Wilkes' Corn Puddingfrom Mrs. Wilkes' Boardinghouse Cookbook
Ingredients:
1 lb can cream style corn
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons flour
3 eggs, well beaten
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 cup milk
Mix in order given, pour into well greased casserole. Bake at 350 degree F for 1 hour.
Serves 6 to 8
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George’s notes:
- In 1943, Mrs. Wilkes bought a nondescript turn-of-the-century boardinghouse with a modest goal: to make a living by offering comfortable lodging and southern home cooking served family style in the downstairs dining room. Her reputation was strong and business brisk from the beginning, but it was the coverage in Esquire and the New York Times, and a profile on David Brinkley's evening news that brought southern food lovers from all over the world to her doorstep.
- The line now snakes out the front door and onto the street, where along with the locals and visitors, it is not uncommon to find former President Jimmy Carter or Alton Brown, among other familiar faces, waiting for their turn at Mrs. Wilkes' table.
- Mrs. Wilkes's Boarding House is one of those "1,000 Places To See Before You Die" kind of places.
- One diner's instructions on how to find Mrs. Wilkes': "Walk along West Jones Street until you smell fried chicken."
- The two photographs were taken several years ago when I stopped by Mrs. Wilkes for lunch. I might add, it was one of the best meals I have ever eaten.

